DIY and Pro Help With Your Home Projects
What You Need Tools: Hammer, maul, rubber mallet, power drill screwdriver, hacksaw, level, tape measure, garden shovel, trenching spade, wheel barrow, garden hose, garden hoe, trowel, wood float, concrete edger, stiff bristled brush, paint roller, and plastic tarps. Materials: Wire mesh, bolsters, concrete mix, seeding aggregate, exposed aggregate sealer, deck screws.
Warning Concrete is very dangerous in before it is cured. Do not inhale the concrete dust or allow wet concrete to touch your skin as it may burn it.
STEP 1: Prepare the area of the patio by excavating the site and preparing the ground base. The area should be flat to within about an inch and either level or sloping away from the house about 1/2 inch per foot.
STEP 2: Set up corner and edge stakes with strings along the edges of the area for reference.
STEP 3: Measure and cut 2x4 (most patios should be 3-4 inches thick) pressure treated wood and position into place along the edges of the area for the permanent patio forms.
STEP 4: Secure the ends of the boards together with deck screws and make sure all the boards are completely level to each other.
STEP 5: Place 1x4 boards (for expansion joints) into form dividing the area into equally sized sections. Then attach these pieces to the form frame with deck screws.
STEP 6: Insert deck screws along the inside frame of the boards to leave exposed as rods between forms. Then cover the entire form with masking tape for protection before pouring concrete.
STEP 7: Arrange wire mesh (rewire) to fit into each of the sections to act as reinforcement for the concrete form. Insert bolsters under the mesh raising it up not more than 2 inches below the top of the patio forms.
STEP 8: For very smaller jobs (1-10 bags), mix the concrete in a wheelbarrow. For medium jobs (10-30 bags), consider renting a mixer. For large jobs, consider having the concrete delivered (some local suppliers will deliver a little as 1 yard). and then pour it into the first section of the patio, using a masonry hoe to evenly spread the concrete.
STEP 9: Use a straight edge or straight 2x4 that reaches across the section to screed the concrete, evenly pressing the concrete into the form and smoothing the surface. Tap the outer edges of the wood form with a mallet or hammer to settle the concrete fully into the form.
STEP 10: After the concrete is smooth, bit still wet, sprinkle handfuls of seeding aggregate over the surface the first section.
STEP 11: Then embed the aggregate into the concrete surface using a float, making sure the aggregate is visible but firmly embedded. Jiggle the float to get the large pieces of aggregate to sink and bring the finer pieces to the top
STEP 12: Tool the edges of the first section and then smooth out any marks remaining on the surface.
STEP 13: While you repeat the same process in the remaining sections, be sure to cover the each section with plastic to keep the concrete from drying too quickly.
STEP 14: Once the water has evaporated from the surface of the concrete, scrub the concrete (moistening if needed) to fully expose the aggregate.
STEP 15: Remove the masking tape and cover the entire patio area in plastic and allow concrete to cure for 7 days. Remove plastic tarp.
Step 16: After 20 days, scrub concrete surface, then apply a concrete sealer to ensure durability and protection.
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