DIY and Pro Help With Your Home Projects

How To Install Tile Like A Pro

Installing Tile
Installing Ceramic Tile Installing ceramic tile is a great way to add beauty and value to your home. Here are some helpful tips to remember before laying tile: work in small sections so the mortar doesn?t dry before the tiles are set, use spacers between tiles to ensure consistent spacing, and plan an installation sequence to avoid kneeling on set tiles. Be careful not to kneel or walk on tiles until the designated drying period is over.

What you Need Tools : 1/4 inch square trowel (most application, use 1/8 inch for tiles less than 2 inch), rubber mallet, short piece of 2x4 lumber, tile cutter, tile nippers, needle-nose pliers, grout float, grout sponge, soft cloth, small paint sponge, tile spacers. Material : Tiles (8 inch or larger), thinset mortar (use pre-mixed for small jobs, it is only worth the money to mix your own for larger jobs), grout, grout sealer, matching color tile caulk, spacers

A note on tile spacers The tile spacer size (1/16 to 3/8) can have a big impact on the finished product. Large spacers for tiles that have inconsistent dimensions like the rough terra cotta used on outdoor patios. You may also want a larger grout line if you are using a slick tile is a wet area. The grout lines will give traction so the floor will be less slippery.

If you are using an accent strip or small tiles in a sheet, match the spacer to the sheet tile space. In general smaller grout line will stay cleaner so I try to use 3/16 or smaller for most applications

STEP 1 : Be sure the subfloor is smooth, level, and stable. Subfloor can be prepared with wood or cement board. IF THE AREA WILL GET WET AND YOU WANT THE FLOOR TO LAST MORE THAN 3 YEARS, USE A CERAMIC BACKER BOARD. When wood gets wet, it expands and cracks or lifts the tile.

STEP 2 : Draw reference lines throughout room and establish the tile layout, then section off area into 4 quadrants. The line should be down the center of the room but spaced an equal number of tiles from one wall. This will reduce cutting. If you lay down a row of tiles and find that you will have less than a 1-inch strip of tile at one wall, move the line over to make the strip larger. If the room has a taper (is wider at one end than the other), then you can either split the room in half (at the line) and hide the taper at both walls or draw the line parallel to the more visible wall and hide all the taper on the other wall. Before you go any further, leave the room and look into the room from the outside hall or adjacent rooms. The line should appear square when you look at it from outside the room.

STEP 3 : Open the pre-mix or mix a batch of thinset mortar and using the square-notched trowel, spread the mortar evenly across the floor against reference lines in one quadrant. Start in the quadrant that will be the most visible. Use the notches to create furrows in the mortar bed. Apply enough pressure that the trowel scraps against the floor and does not leave any high spots that will leave a high tile.

STEP 4 : Set the first tile in the corner of the quadrant where the reference lines intersect, slightly twisting as you push the tile into the mortar. Wipe off any thinset that extrudes between the tiles above the top. Once dry the will be difficult to remove.

STEP 5 : Using a soft rubber mallet, softly tap the center area of each tile to set it evenly into the mortar. (For larger tiles use a larger trowel with deeper notches.)

STEP 6 : Place tile spaces around the tile to ensure consistent spacing between tiles. Position and set the rest of the tiles in the quadrant ensuring tiles fit neatly against the spacers and reference lines.

STEP 7 : Place a straight piece of 2x4 across several tiles then tap the board with mallet to guarantee the tiles are level. Step back and check that the line is straight and the corners are meeting the same down the line.

STEP 8 : Repeat steps 3 through 7 throughout the area continuing to work each quadrant until reaching walls or fixtures.

STEP 9 : Measure and mark tiles to fit against walls and into corners. Cut the tiles to fit then place and set.

STEP 10 : For tiles fitting against the walls, apply the mortar to the back of the tile instead of the floor, remembering to furrow the mortar with the notched trowel.

STEP 11 : Set the cut edge pieces into place by pressing firmly until each piece is level with adjacent tiles.

STEP 12 : Measure, cut, and set tiles that require notches or curves around pipes or toilet drains.

STEP 13 : After all quadrants are finished, carefully remove tile spacers before mortar has dried. Install all thresholds and let mortar set for 24 hours before moving on to grouting the tile joints.

STEP 14 : Open a bucket of premixed or Mix a batch of floor grout appropriate for the tile.

STEP 15 : Starting in a corner, pour small amounts of grout over the tile. Using a rubber grout float, work the grout to completely fill the joints pressing firmly.

STEP 16 : Use the grout float to remove extra grout over tile then take a damp grout sponge and wipe down tile rinsing sponge between wipes. Be careful not to wipe the same area repeatedly.

STEP 17 : Allow tile and grout to dry for 4 hours. Remove any remaining grout residue by buffing the tile with a soft cloth, (using grout sponge where needed.) Finally, if desired, apply a grout sealer to grout lines with a small sponge.


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